THE REVIEW: SPRING 2011
VIKTOR & ROLF
The charm about Viktor & Rolf is their trademark humor on style.
So far, one of the most dressed-up collections for the season there are certain elements in their tight yet convincingly relaxed 28 piece collection that makes a viewer smile.
A cream sweater paired with the same colored shorts dotted with black buttons featured a famous Viktor & Rolf illustration across the chest: black-framed glasses. An all grey suit and pants revealed a nude v-neck and a shot of energetic aqua blue from a shirt decorated with dots of dark colors. One look in this show took humor and dressing to a level that seems like the case for most of the menswear collections of this season: a plaid trench coat on top a matching tartan print suit and shorts both paired down by a strictly white, buttoned up shirt. This print-on-print style has been appearing since Milan but with Viktor & Rolf's brilliant colors, cuts and styling, it begs to differ from the ones that came before it (that black belt cinched around Simon Nessman's waist for this look equals genius).
It is serious because of the sharp tailoring evident on handsome shoulders and sleek waists, the perfect wrap-around jackets, the 40s trousers, the spectator shoes and a pre-dominantly clean, almost clinical palette of muted mint, navy blue, cream, white, black and grey. But what takes it to a signature, Viktor & Rolf kind of optimism is the play on texture, the clash of patterns, the exciting outcome of seemingly new shapes and lengths. For a dressed up collection, this was a lot of fun to look at.