CUTTING the EDGE:

THE SEVEN-FIVE
MILAN FASHION WEEK

CUTTING the EDGE slices through the entire week and gathers the most memorable colors, trends and names to study, wear and (definitely) admire for Spring 2012. What Gerard Gotladera chooses and what he's learned from these shows.

No expert advise here gents, trust me.

I'm only a huge fan of menswear (among the billions) and not some big time magazine editor who knows all the right stuff. But as a spectator from thousands of miles away, watching some shows live---and God knows technology is his blessing, and anticipating what's bound to pop-up on NOWFASHION, I've come to enjoy the late night headaches I've endured to see whether or not Dolce & Gabbana's doing something new or what Miuccia Prada's got up her sleeve now or what I could possibly wear from Moncler Gamme Bleu.


While the experts have come out with 160-word (or less) tweets of what they think rocked the shows and somewhere in a mess of names you'll see a common look from, say Gucci, gaining tremendous respect and props, here at THE EDGE I bring you what a commoner thinks is great.

A personal take on Fashion Week, to put it elegantly, so don't keep your expectations lost in the clouds gents. I'm no Peskowitz or Eugene Tong, but I do love menswear and out of that love comes a natural reaction. With help from these specialists, of course---including the awesome, awesome photos from SONNY PHOTOS, I present to you what I saw as spectacular, chic and what I'd most probably wear come Spring 2012.

Without further a do, here are SEVEN of the collections that I believe have rocked my socks during Milan Fashion Week. Big names for sure, but also really big on style in my book. The Seven collections and the Five things (trends) I learned from them.



ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

Jacob Coupe in a stunning champagne suit, pale pink shirt and a tea green tie
Lesson # 1: The power of color

Lesson # 2: Wrinkled = good

The Look: Polished, refined and surprisingly relaxed, a collection that's simple at its core, but rendered and delivered to exceed Paradiso heights. Dreamy's the word.

The Lessons.: 1) NEVER underestimate the power of color. Doing the review for this one, I had to look up what other shades of blue or green exist and never in my wildest dreams would I ever encounter such delicious hues on clothes, such as pistachio or tea green or something such as an Eton blue. Just stunning. Also, these greens that keep freshening up the runway are definitely one of the biggest trends from Milan.

2.) Maybe having a well-pressed suit or pair of trousers isn't always a chic idea. Well, at least in Zegna's case. Check out how luxurious and elegantly worn-in these looks seem and it's effortless magic. Not only at Zegna, but at Armani too the softest of creases make such amazing elegant touches.

3.) TRAVEL! I'm pretty young and traveling big time is on my bucket list---which will come in the future, so for those of you are already well to travel, please do. Zegna and most of the other huge names, actually most of what's fueling fashion, is an education only traveling could afford. These looks are inspired by the French Riviera, and so is Ferragamo, Gucci takes its cues from the Brits and Moncler Gamme Bleu does a little of what could be worn outerspace. So, travel, travel, travel! (Even to outerspace).

4.) Two button suits look less rigid, more casual but still formal-ready. It's a great investment I believe, maybe not in Zegna pastels---if you prefer to stick to the really classic, dark ones, but when spent on wisely and tailored to your proportions, it's a lifetime's treasure. (If you do get them in Zegna pastels, get them in ALL Zegna pastels).

5.) Still go sockless. Especially if you're kicks are as handsome as Zegna's glistening lace-ups, it's the best way to go.

THE REVIEW & THE SANDWICH: SPRING 2012

THE QUICK FIVE
MILAN FASHION WEEK DAY 3


Here, for THE REVIEW & your mid-week treat THE SANDWICH are five strong and memorable collections fresh off Milan Fashion Week's third day, reviewed in as brief a review I could do. Cause sometimes, the less we say the more justice we give (in my case, to say the least). Presenting: Alexander McQueen, Etro, Z Zegna, Versace & D&G.


+ ALEXANDER McQUEEN

Done up in familiar silhouettes prevalent during the rock n' roll of the 60s and sometime early in the 70s, Sarah Burton's talents at menswear is divine at Alexander McQueen Spring 2012. Boxy suits with perfect arms and shoulders are striped in black and gold, lapeled in two neutral tones or immaculate in a glistening cream spruce up leopard-print trousers, plain gray t-shirts or white button-downs. Proportions are well-played as well with jackets hitting a few inches above the waist or others by the hips, all cool and allows for lots of free-moving. It's a snazzy look brimming with rock n' roll references and images of the cool and happening British scene from decades past. 

+ ETRO

At Etro the prints take centerstage from plaids to paisleys to polka dots painting the runways in high spirits on backdrops of navy blazers, wrinkly slim trousers, beautifully-spun knits and silk Macs. Silhouette is generally comfortable--- flowing even, and when layered, the choices of fabric and the variation on proportions on items create such a relaxed and casual appeal, perfect for taking the world in a less serious light.

+ Z  ZEGNA

 

If you're just like me all hungover from Ermenegildo Zegna, looking at Z Zegna feels like sipping hot coffee the morning after. Its grounded colors and fairly more easier-to-pull-off pieces like round-neck knits in a golden yellow or azure, wide-lapeled jackets in chocolate and more than a handful of coats, shirts and blazers to choose from feel more realistic than the dreamy Ermenegildo Zegna collection. That's not to say that it isn't beautiful. In fact, the relatively more casual and less prissy direction this collection has taken is just as handsome. I now consider myself a Zegna convert.

+ VERSACE

Donatella Versace knows a good statement alright and just like every season, Spring 2012 at Versace's menswear is a big and loud statement. Vladimir Ivanov, who looks like a Versace front liner for war is just one look from a collection of potent colors, dizzyingly awesome proportions and prints that are as aggressive as they are fascinating. Buckles fasten on the side of lush caramel trousers and on its suede jacket peppered with shoulder embellishments. The socked-sandals too are attention grabbing and the gilded and heavily tinted sunglasses as well. This isn't a collection for the faint of heart (such as myself). Expect no less from the house of Versace.

+ D&G

 

While it's no surprise that denim stars in the Spring 2012 collection of D&G, it is though, a revelation that when paired with elaborately printed silk basics like shorts, shirts, jackets and pants the two make a young. vibrant and almost electric couple. A favorite would be Francisco Lachowski's light-washed denim jacket. Sam Webb's smoky, faded denim shirt punched with a silk orange denim-waisted pair of shorts is another stellar look. When topped with fedoras, soled with warm mocs and balanced out by bits of khakis and olives here and there, it gets your heart-racing, excited for a sojourn just about anywhere. Chic, cool, rugged but also aged and a little flamboyant, this is what I'd dream to wear in the summer.

photos: GQ

- Gerard

TOP PICKS:

STREET STYLE GUIDE
MENSWEAR

Tommy Ton's Day 1 Pitti Uomo shot @ GQ

Keep up with what's happening on this month's most important (style and fashion wise) event: Pitti Uomo. While Milan Fashion Week (Spring 2012, Menswear) has finally begun, it's not always what the designers are sending down the runway that matters to you...It's also what the big boys are wearing. From street style heroes to stylish passers by, these are the top four Street Style blogs and photographers I highly recommend you check out:

>>> Tommy Ton for GQ
Usually what I go to, Tommy Ton's shots for GQ AND during fashion week always occupy my folder of pictures, and I sometimes have to deal with emotional pain before having them deleted (cause you just can't keep all those photos with you). Definitely highly recommended for its weekly updates and for the plain great photography. 

Nam's day 1 Pitti Uomo shot. Anybody know who this is?

>>> Nam of STREET FSN
The Korean wonderboy we've met before (once interviewed here for THE STARTER) is now a giant when it comes to Street Style blogging and I commend STREET FSN photos for a little moody, almost moving kind of photography. STREET FSN is the one to beat, I'm telling you.



>>> ENRICO ZAFARANA
Enrico Zafarana's photos are (unfortunately) immune from all your right-clicking and for a damn good reason. Photos by Zafarana are cool and less "sunny" like the others, which lend a subtle chic touch to sometimes outrageously colorful subjects. Get over the fact that you couldn't save them and just ogle at all the magnificent details of both street style walkers and what's inside the shows.

Would you look at that pocket square...Guerreisms

>>> GUERREISMS
You could learn pronouncing the name---in case you find it difficult to, like I do, some other time, but make sure you follow/bookmark this Tumblr for more detail-oriented photos. Want to know how pocket squares are rolled/folded at Pitti Uomo? Exactly the place to go to.


+ The Best Twitter account you should follow during this week (and the next and the next...) is Sartorially Inclined's. I swear by it and he's actually my source of everything, these blogs included.

Reviews will be coming your way in a matter of days gents, so stick around.

- Gerard

TOP PICKS:

THE LAST MINUTE HOLIDAY SHOPPING GUIDE

It's this close to Christmas and if you're like me, pretty much giftless for the ones we love, then this last minute round-up of the TOP  TEN awesome gifts to give would soothe the Holiday stress you and I are in. Sourced from the net's style blogs and online magazines, this is how chic and bright last minute shopping could get.

>>> JvdF's TIE BRACELET

And like most swell male models, tapping into their business savvy proved quite the kick the fashion industry needed, what with everyone falling in love with bracelets and bracelet watches. This unisex tie bracelet is a limited edition item, churned by JvdF's Justin von der Fehr a former model who takes inspiration from his grandfather's vintage ties and billfolds. This baby's been fashioned with such great materials like an old repp tie and lizard skin and it's quite a chic addition to all those braided leather ones we love. Getting this for a girlfriend isn't such a bad idea.

>>> Tokyomilk Wrapped Soap
The base of all beautiful scents of men and women is a good bar of soap. You will be praised by your girlfriend, mother, sister, aunt, close girl friends when you present them Tokyomilk's Wrapped Soap. Get the aesthete in them swooning courtesy of the soap's specially hand-illustrated covers and get their senses in a trance (yours included) the moment they lather up in these soap's dreamy scents.You rarely come across these diamonds, when the package is equally beautiful as the content.

>>> fragment design + Kangol Jacquard Earflap Pull-on Beanies

Collaborations between established and up and coming or pretty hot labels aren't just in as of the moment, but are also producers of one-of-a-kind items like fragment design + Kangol's efforts for the Jacquard Earflap Pull-on Beanies. While it's cold, and it'll always be cold, these quirky selections would fit brothers, sisters, buddies and those close lady friends well. And throw one in for yourself too.

>>> Analogue Life for Wallpaper

For the highly sophisticated, domesticated Mr./Ms./Mrs. (or you) whose the snobby type when it comes to tableware, Wallpaper magazine and Japanese Analogue Life tag teamed to create a limited edition line of wooden tableware made out of "200 year old strips" of bent wood. A big plus is that this line has the "hand-made" reassurance our generation's so mad about lately. Imagine the craftsmanship there and you know you'll be winning his/her/your high aesthetic desires with this collaboration.

>>> Left Field Ivy Crew Sweater

Easy going guys who have a knack for style would be pleased to receive NYC's Left Field Ivy Crew Sweater. It's got all the good stuff of a basic sweater (the 1940s design, the merino wool, the slim fit), one that's best paired with cords or khakis, beat-up jeans, pyjamas even and by the same time next year, another one in a different color would still be a treat.

>>> Proenza Schouler's PS1 Satchel

A lady knows the impact of a chic accessory, especially if it's a bag. For that special girl whose worth more than what your money could afford, get her a PS1 Proenza Schouler. All of the fashion insiders and fans are going gaga over this and when it's wrapped in its box under her (or your) tree, she'll definitely fall deeper in love with you.

     

                                                                   

>>> Air Fork One 

It might sound sappy, but we all know that our friends who have kids enjoy the holidays better if their kids are all bright and happy. You may not have that enough money to give them an iPad but you do see the fun in giving them a fork that's also a plane...Well, not literally one that could fly, but as Esquire puts it, it saves them the hassle of having to pretend that a fork's one. Thank you Air Fork One for making eating such a ride.

>>> Muji Dopp Kit

One of the best things you could give a man is a sense of order. Without being a nagging mother figure he'd never need, visit everyone's favorite MUJI for your friend, best friend, officemate, brother, uncle, dad, or your old enough son's dopp kit, one that's simple, no non-sense and well organized enough to remind him that his vanity goods (and his life too) needs all the proper compartments. 

>>> Kate Moss by Mario Testino

You couldn't possibly pass on this one, when it's for you, for him, for her, for them...Why? Well, it's a book of perfect photos of no one else, but one of our generation's pop icons/super duper models: Kate Moss. To up the game, it's all by master lensman Mario Testino. The only reason I see fit to say no to Kate Moss by Mario Testino if you really don't know who Kate Moss or Mario Testino is (which I highly doubt).

>>> Rolex Bamford Watch
Okay, so maybe this one isn't much of a last minute purchase, but you do feel it sometimes, that romantic pull of a shiny new something you'll find all the reasons in the world to make sure you get it and it's worth the painful penny.
As a reward for all your hard-working hours this year, meet your handsome ease into the legend that is Rolex. 
The awesome people at the Bamford Department will be your personal chef into cooking the personal experience of a Rolex.
Check out for the watch's classic designs and start spicing it up to meet your every cool specifications.
It starts at a heavy $7,000 and depending on your whims, it will most likely climb higher...
But do remember that the reason why it's on this list, is because just maybe, at the last minute you remember that you're worth a splurge too just as much as your loved ones.
After all, being  giving deserves a bright present for ones self too.

THE REVIEW: SPRING 2011

MIHARAYASUHIRO

Rarely would men find themselves fitting perfectly into seemingly dishevelled clothes such as Miharayasuhiro's.

It's not a bad thing, for what Mihara Yasuhiro does is wearable art, deserving of men who are born with great imaginations and a superhuman sense of style, much like the designer's.

What I really admire most about this designer is that despite my different view on fashion and personal style, is his ability to capture attention without any grotesque reactions in return. For some reason, I find myself lusting over his unreachable and unkempt elegance, even when I'm not into this kind of style.Since his Little Prince inspired Spring 2010 collection, I had considered myself a huge fan of his vision and talent.

Spring 2011 with Miharayasuhiro is a journey through nature's progress, as Tim Blanks mentioned in his review, and how man's relationship with it has changed. Of course, the narrative coincides with the heavy-detailed looks of the collection.

Without the trappings of prior reviews, it strikes viewers as a uniform of young boys out on hiking trips or camping expeditions with little guarantee of return to their urban homes. A tired, degrading and beat-up t-shirt came bedecked with metal pieces such as locks, keys and miniature screw drivers to name a few. A navy blue sweater with white stripes running across its chest also went with tattered jeans with blotches of lighter blue against its grey black mass. A hybrid---among other hybrid items---of a puffer vest, hoodie and poncho was one of the most interesting looks in the collection. It covered up a handsome, subtly plaid shirt, patched jeans rolled high to show a shocking yellow on top of chunky brown boots. An all khaki look that composed of another hybrid of an item (fatigue jacket meets poncho) had incredible layering but still looked impeccably chic. A long coat that featured a print of the sun peeking through standing trees in a forest was followed by a similar piece of a jacket, featuring a calming sunset across a sea: these designs were apparently woven by Yasuhiro, using a technique he invented (according to Tim Blank). And then came looks of dressier feel, dinner jackets worn over well-worn t-shirts, loose trousers and varying shoes of mega duty.

It's the story behind it that fuels such a visual feast that it is important to keep in mind that designers, to an extent are heroic story tellers. Like Mihara Yasuhiro, his tales are ones worthy of recognition. What eyes see in this collection might vary, depending on who views it, but what's certain is that this collection has achieved what most designers of this season failed to do: establish a vision.

The collection came down to painful attention to detail and ignited in every single viewer (even those whose styles never match that of Yasuhiro's) well deserved applause. Doing a review for a Miharayasuhiro collection is an attempt to pen a slice from a master's genius...It is impossible to capture into words what his vision is and at the end of the day, we all just ought to ztop talking, writing and simply appreciate what pure talent, skill and creativity he has. Mihara Yasuhiro is of a divine, almost superhuman level. Bravo.

credit goes to Tim Blanks of Style.com for a perfect review, inspiring mine.

-Gerard