THE WEEKEND:

NYFW REVIEWS SPRING 2012 
+ MORE


This weekend, THE EDGE gives you some of New York Fashion Week's collections in the most comprehensible reviews. Also, ESQUIRE Philippines, the world's (new) number one male model and why everyone's Stoned on Lara... 


Welcome to the weekend gents!

THE REVIEW: SPRING 2012

LODEN DAGER

Light, Breezy, Sporty & Cool
Loden Dager

Unpretentious is not the term for looks like these anymore (cause obviously, there's a little studying involved here)...Cool could cut it as well, but...I don't know. 

At first it might've seemed korny, cause the bright colors and the breaks of neutrals that saved you from a possible sour face looked---well, korny. But prejudices aside, Loden Dager did a collection that was far from korny. 

It was young, fitting for college cool kids who really took dressing down seriously (and those who were possibly tired of the neat and well-groomed kids we've been seeing a lot of lately). The colors are, of course, a story on its own: neons and brights all coming together in varying degrees, without missing out on easily wearable neutrals. Drawstring shin-gracing trousers and shorts were big here. Prints on shorts, just like at Dolce & Gabbana, surprisingly went well with wobbly-lined printed shirts. In a nutshell, it's light, breezy, sporty and cool. For the safe-siders, there's loads to pick up from the collection: light denim jackets, grand daddy-approved short sleeve shirts, sweaters for layering and  rolled-up trousers.

But "cool" still doesn't give it justice. Maybe the word for it is young. I see a lot of the young ones enjoying these looks. And yes, I'm finally saying it, thank you Loden Dager for making rubber shoes awesome again.

- Gerard

THE REVIEW: SPRING 2012

SIMON SPURR

The best anorak off NYFW Spring 2012
Simon Spurr

Simon Spurr's clothes had a certain glow about them.

Maybe it's the Spring 2012 glow we've seen in tons of them already since Milan and Paris. Not saying it's bad. In fact, it was one of the saving graces at Spurr. Moments before I decided I'd pass for a Spurr review, then came the loose, slim shirts, buttoned-up and showing some flow and movement to them that won me. Then the anorak---the ever so handsome anorak. Then the mesh shirts. Then the patched shirts. It's typical Spurr with faultless tailoring and just A++ shapes, but the subtle play of texture took the collection to lovable territories.

Colors are Spring 2012 staples, maroon, navy blue, white, khaki, black and olive. But the bold stripes that ran across suits opened up Spurr fans to an edgier offering.

It's probably the rebellious streak to the whole look and feel of the collection, something that Simon Spurr's dandy looks hadn't offered before that gave this one a breather. Not his finest outing for sure (cause Spurr has so much more to offer), but it's Simon Spurr and I'd gladly wear that anorak and those loose, slim shirts 'till I'm fined for overusing and abusing them.

- Gerard

GET EDGE:

DRIES VAN NOTEN
SPRING 2012

Spring 2012 must haves, from Dries Van Noten @ Hypebeast

The folks up at HYPEBEAST are angels...Credit goes to them for showing a preview of one of my favorite Spring 2012 collections from Paris. Dries Van Noten's utilitarian cool pieces are well-photographed here and they definitely will be selling off their shelves and tables real soon. Check out more of the items available on the Hypebeast link above and check out what I'll be doing for these goodies on Salt.

- Gerard

CUTTING the EDGE:

THE SEVEN-FIVE
MILAN FASHION WEEK

CUTTING the EDGE slices through the entire week and gathers the most memorable colors, trends and names to study, wear and (definitely) admire for Spring 2012. What Gerard Gotladera chooses and what he's learned from these shows.

No expert advise here gents, trust me.

I'm only a huge fan of menswear (among the billions) and not some big time magazine editor who knows all the right stuff. But as a spectator from thousands of miles away, watching some shows live---and God knows technology is his blessing, and anticipating what's bound to pop-up on NOWFASHION, I've come to enjoy the late night headaches I've endured to see whether or not Dolce & Gabbana's doing something new or what Miuccia Prada's got up her sleeve now or what I could possibly wear from Moncler Gamme Bleu.


While the experts have come out with 160-word (or less) tweets of what they think rocked the shows and somewhere in a mess of names you'll see a common look from, say Gucci, gaining tremendous respect and props, here at THE EDGE I bring you what a commoner thinks is great.

A personal take on Fashion Week, to put it elegantly, so don't keep your expectations lost in the clouds gents. I'm no Peskowitz or Eugene Tong, but I do love menswear and out of that love comes a natural reaction. With help from these specialists, of course---including the awesome, awesome photos from SONNY PHOTOS, I present to you what I saw as spectacular, chic and what I'd most probably wear come Spring 2012.

Without further a do, here are SEVEN of the collections that I believe have rocked my socks during Milan Fashion Week. Big names for sure, but also really big on style in my book. The Seven collections and the Five things (trends) I learned from them.



ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

Jacob Coupe in a stunning champagne suit, pale pink shirt and a tea green tie
Lesson # 1: The power of color

Lesson # 2: Wrinkled = good

The Look: Polished, refined and surprisingly relaxed, a collection that's simple at its core, but rendered and delivered to exceed Paradiso heights. Dreamy's the word.

The Lessons.: 1) NEVER underestimate the power of color. Doing the review for this one, I had to look up what other shades of blue or green exist and never in my wildest dreams would I ever encounter such delicious hues on clothes, such as pistachio or tea green or something such as an Eton blue. Just stunning. Also, these greens that keep freshening up the runway are definitely one of the biggest trends from Milan.

2.) Maybe having a well-pressed suit or pair of trousers isn't always a chic idea. Well, at least in Zegna's case. Check out how luxurious and elegantly worn-in these looks seem and it's effortless magic. Not only at Zegna, but at Armani too the softest of creases make such amazing elegant touches.

3.) TRAVEL! I'm pretty young and traveling big time is on my bucket list---which will come in the future, so for those of you are already well to travel, please do. Zegna and most of the other huge names, actually most of what's fueling fashion, is an education only traveling could afford. These looks are inspired by the French Riviera, and so is Ferragamo, Gucci takes its cues from the Brits and Moncler Gamme Bleu does a little of what could be worn outerspace. So, travel, travel, travel! (Even to outerspace).

4.) Two button suits look less rigid, more casual but still formal-ready. It's a great investment I believe, maybe not in Zegna pastels---if you prefer to stick to the really classic, dark ones, but when spent on wisely and tailored to your proportions, it's a lifetime's treasure. (If you do get them in Zegna pastels, get them in ALL Zegna pastels).

5.) Still go sockless. Especially if you're kicks are as handsome as Zegna's glistening lace-ups, it's the best way to go.

THE REVIEW & THE SANDWICH: SPRING 2012

THE QUICK FIVE
MILAN FASHION WEEK DAY 3


Here, for THE REVIEW & your mid-week treat THE SANDWICH are five strong and memorable collections fresh off Milan Fashion Week's third day, reviewed in as brief a review I could do. Cause sometimes, the less we say the more justice we give (in my case, to say the least). Presenting: Alexander McQueen, Etro, Z Zegna, Versace & D&G.


+ ALEXANDER McQUEEN

Done up in familiar silhouettes prevalent during the rock n' roll of the 60s and sometime early in the 70s, Sarah Burton's talents at menswear is divine at Alexander McQueen Spring 2012. Boxy suits with perfect arms and shoulders are striped in black and gold, lapeled in two neutral tones or immaculate in a glistening cream spruce up leopard-print trousers, plain gray t-shirts or white button-downs. Proportions are well-played as well with jackets hitting a few inches above the waist or others by the hips, all cool and allows for lots of free-moving. It's a snazzy look brimming with rock n' roll references and images of the cool and happening British scene from decades past. 

+ ETRO

At Etro the prints take centerstage from plaids to paisleys to polka dots painting the runways in high spirits on backdrops of navy blazers, wrinkly slim trousers, beautifully-spun knits and silk Macs. Silhouette is generally comfortable--- flowing even, and when layered, the choices of fabric and the variation on proportions on items create such a relaxed and casual appeal, perfect for taking the world in a less serious light.

+ Z  ZEGNA

 

If you're just like me all hungover from Ermenegildo Zegna, looking at Z Zegna feels like sipping hot coffee the morning after. Its grounded colors and fairly more easier-to-pull-off pieces like round-neck knits in a golden yellow or azure, wide-lapeled jackets in chocolate and more than a handful of coats, shirts and blazers to choose from feel more realistic than the dreamy Ermenegildo Zegna collection. That's not to say that it isn't beautiful. In fact, the relatively more casual and less prissy direction this collection has taken is just as handsome. I now consider myself a Zegna convert.

+ VERSACE

Donatella Versace knows a good statement alright and just like every season, Spring 2012 at Versace's menswear is a big and loud statement. Vladimir Ivanov, who looks like a Versace front liner for war is just one look from a collection of potent colors, dizzyingly awesome proportions and prints that are as aggressive as they are fascinating. Buckles fasten on the side of lush caramel trousers and on its suede jacket peppered with shoulder embellishments. The socked-sandals too are attention grabbing and the gilded and heavily tinted sunglasses as well. This isn't a collection for the faint of heart (such as myself). Expect no less from the house of Versace.

+ D&G

 

While it's no surprise that denim stars in the Spring 2012 collection of D&G, it is though, a revelation that when paired with elaborately printed silk basics like shorts, shirts, jackets and pants the two make a young. vibrant and almost electric couple. A favorite would be Francisco Lachowski's light-washed denim jacket. Sam Webb's smoky, faded denim shirt punched with a silk orange denim-waisted pair of shorts is another stellar look. When topped with fedoras, soled with warm mocs and balanced out by bits of khakis and olives here and there, it gets your heart-racing, excited for a sojourn just about anywhere. Chic, cool, rugged but also aged and a little flamboyant, this is what I'd dream to wear in the summer.

photos: GQ

- Gerard

THE REVIEW: SPRING 2012

BOTTEGA VENETA
MILAN FASHION WEEK

It's plaid looking blurry and smoky = beautiful
Backstage @ Bottega Veneta Spring 2012
Sonny Photos

Festive yet crisp. A little crazy but well-put together. Almost therapeutic on color and high on the mixes, what Tomas Maier has done for Bottega Veneta Spring 2012 is a celebration. Like most Milanese shows, it seems that the blending and union of various prints, techniques, materials and proportions is a huge, huge trend. And  no one's really complaining, especially right after seeing how this kind of chemistry ought to be handled at Bottega Veneta.