THE WEEKEND:

NYFW REVIEWS SPRING 2012 
+ MORE


This weekend, THE EDGE gives you some of New York Fashion Week's collections in the most comprehensible reviews. Also, ESQUIRE Philippines, the world's (new) number one male model and why everyone's Stoned on Lara... 


Welcome to the weekend gents!

THE REVIEW: SPRING 2012

LODEN DAGER

Light, Breezy, Sporty & Cool
Loden Dager

Unpretentious is not the term for looks like these anymore (cause obviously, there's a little studying involved here)...Cool could cut it as well, but...I don't know. 

At first it might've seemed korny, cause the bright colors and the breaks of neutrals that saved you from a possible sour face looked---well, korny. But prejudices aside, Loden Dager did a collection that was far from korny. 

It was young, fitting for college cool kids who really took dressing down seriously (and those who were possibly tired of the neat and well-groomed kids we've been seeing a lot of lately). The colors are, of course, a story on its own: neons and brights all coming together in varying degrees, without missing out on easily wearable neutrals. Drawstring shin-gracing trousers and shorts were big here. Prints on shorts, just like at Dolce & Gabbana, surprisingly went well with wobbly-lined printed shirts. In a nutshell, it's light, breezy, sporty and cool. For the safe-siders, there's loads to pick up from the collection: light denim jackets, grand daddy-approved short sleeve shirts, sweaters for layering and  rolled-up trousers.

But "cool" still doesn't give it justice. Maybe the word for it is young. I see a lot of the young ones enjoying these looks. And yes, I'm finally saying it, thank you Loden Dager for making rubber shoes awesome again.

- Gerard

THE REVIEW: SPRING 2012

DRIES VAN NOTEN
PARIS FASHION WEEK

The march of cool
@ Dries Van Noten 
photo by SONNY PHOTO

To say that there's "plenty to like" from the Spring 2012 Dries Van Noten show is a simple way of acknowledging the fact that this season, is definitely one of its most wearable and "awesomest" collections to date. In my book at least. The quiet cool and focused energy Dries Van Noten's clothes always come out with is a success every season and I believe this is exactly why I consider Dries Van Noten a heavyweight champ in the school of masculine cool.

CUTTING the EDGE:

THE SEVEN-FIVE
MILAN FASHION WEEK

CUTTING the EDGE slices through the entire week and gathers the most memorable colors, trends and names to study, wear and (definitely) admire for Spring 2012. What Gerard Gotladera chooses and what he's learned from these shows.

No expert advise here gents, trust me.

I'm only a huge fan of menswear (among the billions) and not some big time magazine editor who knows all the right stuff. But as a spectator from thousands of miles away, watching some shows live---and God knows technology is his blessing, and anticipating what's bound to pop-up on NOWFASHION, I've come to enjoy the late night headaches I've endured to see whether or not Dolce & Gabbana's doing something new or what Miuccia Prada's got up her sleeve now or what I could possibly wear from Moncler Gamme Bleu.


While the experts have come out with 160-word (or less) tweets of what they think rocked the shows and somewhere in a mess of names you'll see a common look from, say Gucci, gaining tremendous respect and props, here at THE EDGE I bring you what a commoner thinks is great.

A personal take on Fashion Week, to put it elegantly, so don't keep your expectations lost in the clouds gents. I'm no Peskowitz or Eugene Tong, but I do love menswear and out of that love comes a natural reaction. With help from these specialists, of course---including the awesome, awesome photos from SONNY PHOTOS, I present to you what I saw as spectacular, chic and what I'd most probably wear come Spring 2012.

Without further a do, here are SEVEN of the collections that I believe have rocked my socks during Milan Fashion Week. Big names for sure, but also really big on style in my book. The Seven collections and the Five things (trends) I learned from them.



ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

Jacob Coupe in a stunning champagne suit, pale pink shirt and a tea green tie
Lesson # 1: The power of color

Lesson # 2: Wrinkled = good

The Look: Polished, refined and surprisingly relaxed, a collection that's simple at its core, but rendered and delivered to exceed Paradiso heights. Dreamy's the word.

The Lessons.: 1) NEVER underestimate the power of color. Doing the review for this one, I had to look up what other shades of blue or green exist and never in my wildest dreams would I ever encounter such delicious hues on clothes, such as pistachio or tea green or something such as an Eton blue. Just stunning. Also, these greens that keep freshening up the runway are definitely one of the biggest trends from Milan.

2.) Maybe having a well-pressed suit or pair of trousers isn't always a chic idea. Well, at least in Zegna's case. Check out how luxurious and elegantly worn-in these looks seem and it's effortless magic. Not only at Zegna, but at Armani too the softest of creases make such amazing elegant touches.

3.) TRAVEL! I'm pretty young and traveling big time is on my bucket list---which will come in the future, so for those of you are already well to travel, please do. Zegna and most of the other huge names, actually most of what's fueling fashion, is an education only traveling could afford. These looks are inspired by the French Riviera, and so is Ferragamo, Gucci takes its cues from the Brits and Moncler Gamme Bleu does a little of what could be worn outerspace. So, travel, travel, travel! (Even to outerspace).

4.) Two button suits look less rigid, more casual but still formal-ready. It's a great investment I believe, maybe not in Zegna pastels---if you prefer to stick to the really classic, dark ones, but when spent on wisely and tailored to your proportions, it's a lifetime's treasure. (If you do get them in Zegna pastels, get them in ALL Zegna pastels).

5.) Still go sockless. Especially if you're kicks are as handsome as Zegna's glistening lace-ups, it's the best way to go.

THE REVIEW & THE SANDWICH: SPRING 2012

THE QUICK FIVE
MILAN FASHION WEEK DAY 3


Here, for THE REVIEW & your mid-week treat THE SANDWICH are five strong and memorable collections fresh off Milan Fashion Week's third day, reviewed in as brief a review I could do. Cause sometimes, the less we say the more justice we give (in my case, to say the least). Presenting: Alexander McQueen, Etro, Z Zegna, Versace & D&G.


+ ALEXANDER McQUEEN

Done up in familiar silhouettes prevalent during the rock n' roll of the 60s and sometime early in the 70s, Sarah Burton's talents at menswear is divine at Alexander McQueen Spring 2012. Boxy suits with perfect arms and shoulders are striped in black and gold, lapeled in two neutral tones or immaculate in a glistening cream spruce up leopard-print trousers, plain gray t-shirts or white button-downs. Proportions are well-played as well with jackets hitting a few inches above the waist or others by the hips, all cool and allows for lots of free-moving. It's a snazzy look brimming with rock n' roll references and images of the cool and happening British scene from decades past. 

+ ETRO

At Etro the prints take centerstage from plaids to paisleys to polka dots painting the runways in high spirits on backdrops of navy blazers, wrinkly slim trousers, beautifully-spun knits and silk Macs. Silhouette is generally comfortable--- flowing even, and when layered, the choices of fabric and the variation on proportions on items create such a relaxed and casual appeal, perfect for taking the world in a less serious light.

+ Z  ZEGNA

 

If you're just like me all hungover from Ermenegildo Zegna, looking at Z Zegna feels like sipping hot coffee the morning after. Its grounded colors and fairly more easier-to-pull-off pieces like round-neck knits in a golden yellow or azure, wide-lapeled jackets in chocolate and more than a handful of coats, shirts and blazers to choose from feel more realistic than the dreamy Ermenegildo Zegna collection. That's not to say that it isn't beautiful. In fact, the relatively more casual and less prissy direction this collection has taken is just as handsome. I now consider myself a Zegna convert.

+ VERSACE

Donatella Versace knows a good statement alright and just like every season, Spring 2012 at Versace's menswear is a big and loud statement. Vladimir Ivanov, who looks like a Versace front liner for war is just one look from a collection of potent colors, dizzyingly awesome proportions and prints that are as aggressive as they are fascinating. Buckles fasten on the side of lush caramel trousers and on its suede jacket peppered with shoulder embellishments. The socked-sandals too are attention grabbing and the gilded and heavily tinted sunglasses as well. This isn't a collection for the faint of heart (such as myself). Expect no less from the house of Versace.

+ D&G

 

While it's no surprise that denim stars in the Spring 2012 collection of D&G, it is though, a revelation that when paired with elaborately printed silk basics like shorts, shirts, jackets and pants the two make a young. vibrant and almost electric couple. A favorite would be Francisco Lachowski's light-washed denim jacket. Sam Webb's smoky, faded denim shirt punched with a silk orange denim-waisted pair of shorts is another stellar look. When topped with fedoras, soled with warm mocs and balanced out by bits of khakis and olives here and there, it gets your heart-racing, excited for a sojourn just about anywhere. Chic, cool, rugged but also aged and a little flamboyant, this is what I'd dream to wear in the summer.

photos: GQ

- Gerard

THE REVIEW: SPRING 2012

BOTTEGA VENETA
MILAN FASHION WEEK

It's plaid looking blurry and smoky = beautiful
Backstage @ Bottega Veneta Spring 2012
Sonny Photos

Festive yet crisp. A little crazy but well-put together. Almost therapeutic on color and high on the mixes, what Tomas Maier has done for Bottega Veneta Spring 2012 is a celebration. Like most Milanese shows, it seems that the blending and union of various prints, techniques, materials and proportions is a huge, huge trend. And  no one's really complaining, especially right after seeing how this kind of chemistry ought to be handled at Bottega Veneta. 

THE REVIEW: SPRING 2012

NEIL BARRETT
MILAN FASHION WEEK

Sunny models backstage, kinda angry cool on stage.
Neil Barrett Spring 2012

Neil Barrett is putting 2 Tone on revival. First impression of this collection and you hear yourself saying something like "I've seen this look before..." It was probably a year or two ago when these looks swept the runways and it was cool. Still is, I think and at Neil Barrett's Spring 2012 collection, the meeting of subcultures and attitudes, not to mention textures and designs, find a welcoming place in my book. 

Seems like the angst we've recently seen  at Burberry's gone viral and landed a cozy spot in Neil Barrett's impressive tailoring. Shrunken in size and almost lethal to look at, things go a little heavy in other aspects such as print and fabric. Leather was also recently christened as a material for Spring and here we see it doing its full potential: vests, jacket sleeves, hefty bower sandals and ribbed on super cool bags. I still see a lot of buyers for these looks, despite the abundance of such pieces. Take for example a biker vest that you'd mistake for another designer's doppelganger is possibly one of the easiest items to sell especially when it effortlessly punches up a t-shirt plus trousers plus shoes ensemble.

THE REVIEW: SPRING 2012

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA 
MILAN FASHION WEEK

Fooling around and waiting to romance the catwalk in Ermenegildo Zegna Spring 2012
Paolo Anchisi, one of the Davenport twins & Francisco Lachowski
GIF by Sonny Photos

La Vie En Rose could've played this collection perfectly well---despite an already-apt jazzy/bossa number for the show, simply because it leaves you breathless in a romantic trance. 

So where is Ermenegildo Zegna taking us for Spring 2012? It's to the Côte d'Azur they say, but with such handsome and heavenly proportions, where these clothes could go are infinite. 

A new kind of dashing is presented here at Zegna as it romances, as always, the runways, its audience, patrons and most of all, a quite tiring world of the usuals in style. Suits, sandals, trousers, neckties, bags, scarves, tiny accouterments all come together to present a collection dreams are made of.

THE REVIEW: SPRING 2012

BURBERRY PRORSUM 
MILAN FASHION WEEK

Hippies off to work. Burberry Prorsum Spring 2012
by Sonny Photos

Crafty cool is what I'd love to call it. And yes, I find it incredibly youthful how Christopher Bailey is doing Spring 2012 for Burberry Prorsum. Check out my review for GOODIES magazine and why I think this is Bailey's coolest Burberry collection to date/ why this collection reminds me of hippies going to work for the industrial revolution.

Stay tuned for Ermenegildo Zegna & Neil Barrett reviews soon. And while you're at it, follow me on Twitter for more updates.

- Gerard

THE REVIEW: SPRING 2012

CORNELIANI
MILAN FASHION WEEK

Whether its ivory or pearl, this one is straight from heaven
Nikola Jovanovic for Cornerliani Spring 2012

Looking a little too precious for Safari and hunting escapades, I do---though, imagine traipsing the wild in such soft and plush numbers delivered by the talented Mr. Sergio Corneliani. The signature smooth ripple that you see in practically every piece of Corneliani Spring 2012 highlights just how breezy these items are. But don't be fooled, cause, as I've said, you could take these pristine duds for a spin at some adventure.

At Corneliani Spring 2012 gentlemen are presented as such: well-educated, somewhat soft-spoken, mild mannered but never without a bone of the rugged. That was the impression at least, as hinted by those soft scarves and finely dimpled fedoras worn with the most elegant suits in the business (take for example a pearl ensemble as seen on Nikola Jovanovic: its star, a super handsome blazer only Italians could do). Almost everything is lightweight in material. Trousers are free and allow the Corneliani man lots of room for walking from his expensive ride to everywhere else he pleases.  (More after the jump)