Sunday, June 19, 2011



Fooling around and waiting to romance the catwalk in Ermenegildo Zegna Spring 2012
Paolo Anchisi, one of the Davenport twins & Francisco Lachowski
GIF by Sonny Photos
La Vie En Rose could've played this collection perfectly well---despite an already-apt jazzy/bossa number for the show, simply because it leaves you breathless in a romantic trance. 
So where is Ermenegildo Zegna taking us for Spring 2012? It's to the Côte d'Azur they say, but with such handsome and heavenly proportions, where these clothes could go are infinite. 

A new kind of dashing is presented here at Zegna as it romances, as always, the runways, its audience, patrons and most of all, a quite tiring world of the usuals in style. Suits, sandals, trousers, neckties, bags, scarves, tiny accouterments all come together to present a collection dreams are made of.

There is a luster and sheen to everything in this collection. Take for example the lace-ups that subtly glimmer under the lights or how a smooth layer of golden brown leather shines at the bottom of a parchment-colored bag. Even a tie's fine dimples show some luster on them. This sort of metal-crushed-to-powder tint is probably the most entrancing quality the collection wears. It's an invitation to enjoying a quiet kind of luxury, something synonymous to the fashion world's best houses such as Bottega Veneta, Hermes and Ermenegildo Zegna. But texture-wise, Zegna explores other rich feels and looks such as suits in wrinkly lightweight cotton and bags like sand-washed items from the desert. In closer view, things are perfect: stitches all done up, little prints on trousers handsome and just how everything creases makes for a consistent element in the collection.

In a larger context, this collection does look its best by an endless sea. The colors are juxtaposed well with the smooth and downy make of the clothes, conjuring up images of blue waters, pristine sands and---probably, those times when Hemingway and Fitzgerald took to the French Riviera. As the show opens in a light gold striped shirt with a lavender tie in a stunning pewter suit, the rest swims into pastel territories, hues feminine but are now more becoming of a man. Suits in pale champagne, Eton blue or cream, shirts with stripes of coral or tea green and sweaters and more jackets done up in more somber hues like brown, taupe, moss green or sand treat the eyes to a test of color knowledge and taste. But the best look of this collection and definitely one among this season's, is the perfect pistachio suit. Wrinkled and washed to a pearl's luster, it's hard to pull-off, but once given a try and on the occasion one nails it, it's heaven.

The handsome stunner of a suit.

These are classic pieces in both sportswear and formal/casual dressing, with only the slightest of tweaks, like a muted gray-green mac dyed platinum inside all well-cut and sharp. Another is Paolo Anchisi's barely-recognizable two-toned zip-up jacket that's molded in such a sporty elegance. Or how a soft sand safari jacket is cinched at the waist through drawstrings sewn on the inside. These are well-received menswear staples, but at the hands of Zegna, they're almost so ethereal.

"Impeccable" or "perfect" may never encapsulate the beauty that is Zegna Spring 2012. Moving and glorious on texture and color, and light on material, this is one of the most memorable collections I've reviewed in years. I might have just fallen in love and even when it's not playing, in my mind it's La Vie En Rose. Congratulations Zegna.

photos: GQ

- Gerard

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