MILAN FASHION WEEK
CUTTING the EDGE slices through the entire week and gathers the most memorable colors, trends and names to study, wear and (definitely) admire for Spring 2012. What Gerard Gotladera chooses and what he's learned from these shows.
No expert advise here gents, trust me.
I'm only a huge fan of menswear (among the billions) and not some big time magazine editor who knows all the right stuff. But as a spectator from thousands of miles away, watching some shows live---and God knows technology is his blessing, and anticipating what's bound to pop-up on NOWFASHION, I've come to enjoy the late night headaches I've endured to see whether or not Dolce & Gabbana's doing something new or what Miuccia Prada's got up her sleeve now or what I could possibly wear from Moncler Gamme Bleu.
While the experts have come out with 160-word (or less) tweets of what they think rocked the shows and somewhere in a mess of names you'll see a common look from, say Gucci, gaining tremendous respect and props, here at THE EDGE I bring you what a commoner thinks is great.
A personal take on Fashion Week, to put it elegantly, so don't keep your expectations lost in the clouds gents. I'm no Peskowitz or Eugene Tong, but I do love menswear and out of that love comes a natural reaction. With help from these specialists, of course---including the awesome, awesome photos from SONNY PHOTOS, I present to you what I saw as spectacular, chic and what I'd most probably wear come Spring 2012.
Without further a do, here are SEVEN of the collections that I believe have rocked my socks during Milan Fashion Week. Big names for sure, but also really big on style in my book. The Seven collections and the Five things (trends) I learned from them.
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
| Jacob Coupe in a stunning champagne suit, pale pink shirt and a tea green tie Lesson # 1: The power of color |
| Lesson # 2: Wrinkled = good |
The Lessons.: 1) NEVER underestimate the power of color. Doing the review for this one, I had to look up what other shades of blue or green exist and never in my wildest dreams would I ever encounter such delicious hues on clothes, such as pistachio or tea green or something such as an Eton blue. Just stunning. Also, these greens that keep freshening up the runway are definitely one of the biggest trends from Milan.
2.) Maybe having a well-pressed suit or pair of trousers isn't always a chic idea. Well, at least in Zegna's case. Check out how luxurious and elegantly worn-in these looks seem and it's effortless magic. Not only at Zegna, but at Armani too the softest of creases make such amazing elegant touches.
3.) TRAVEL! I'm pretty young and traveling big time is on my bucket list---which will come in the future, so for those of you are already well to travel, please do. Zegna and most of the other huge names, actually most of what's fueling fashion, is an education only traveling could afford. These looks are inspired by the French Riviera, and so is Ferragamo, Gucci takes its cues from the Brits and Moncler Gamme Bleu does a little of what could be worn outerspace. So, travel, travel, travel! (Even to outerspace).
4.) Two button suits look less rigid, more casual but still formal-ready. It's a great investment I believe, maybe not in Zegna pastels---if you prefer to stick to the really classic, dark ones, but when spent on wisely and tailored to your proportions, it's a lifetime's treasure. (If you do get them in Zegna pastels, get them in ALL Zegna pastels).
5.) Still go sockless. Especially if you're kicks are as handsome as Zegna's glistening lace-ups, it's the best way to go.
DOLCE & GABBANA
| The Dolce & Gabbana famed Sampaio Twins & Lesson # 1: The Gauzy Finish |
| Look ma, no hands. What a liar you are Nils Butler... Lesson # 3: SHORTS! |
The Look: Crisp, clean and well-put together, you'd never realize fishnet/mesh or anything gauzy would find its way into your closet. And that's quite refreshing.
The Lessons: 1.) There's a sporty/odd (whichever way you put it) material that serious male dressers have never imagined they'd wear: mesh. They're on athletic gear usually but rarely on dressier pieces like a sweater for instance or a shirt. This show (and also lots like Bottega, Calvin Klein and more) has inroduced to me a breezy kind of dressing, putting on a mesh shirt for layering. It's ideal for a weather like ours in the Philippines, when it rockets to hotter-than-hell climes and if you're in Dolce & Gabbana, then you take care of that AND manage to look molto bene.
3.) Don't shy away from shorts. They're everywhere. And besides, why would you want to waste those perfectly worked-out gams if they'd be hiding under denim or cotton? PLUS, it's Springtime, so loosen up a bit (I should...seriously).
4.) NEVER underestimate the power of square-framed sunglasses. This show, for me, has---hands-down, the baddest looking sunglasses from Milan. Square is back, sure, but Dolce & Gabbana square-framed sunglasses are classic. They'll make you look like a Dolce boy and that's the height of male beauty, no homo.
5.) Get fit and healthy. The reason why these clothes look so damn well is because the models at Dolce & Gabbana are notorious for being built like demi-Gods. What with all those see-through elegance flowing in this show, it's about time we all get as fit as them right? And that's not just because it's a vain bone, but really, keeping fit and healthy ought to be top priority.
BOTTEGA VENETA
| No you're not dizzy. That's just you wanting to feel dizzy cause you can't mix and match like this Lesson # 4: Balance |
The Look: Heavy on different kinds of treatments, mixing and matching and creating new prints you probably couldn't name, it's a rugged take on--what I see as, optimistic dressing. What? Well, I'm just saying the looks here are genius, they're worth lots of happy, chic thoughts such as what should I wear that orange-striped cardigan with today?
The Lessons: 1.) Doing the hybrid (marrying two separate things together: denim with leather on a jacket) is another big thing for Spring 2012. At Cavalli it's a python front jacket with leather sleeves and at Neil Barrett it's joining field jackets with leather. Here at Bottega it's denim with leather and just like the effect of color blocked clothes, the hybrid does loads of flattery and awesome for the wearer. Only with hybrids it's definitely deeper and richer.
2.) There's that old-timey blue that came out fresh on suits here. I don't know if it's a steel blue or gray blue, but they sure do look fantastic. And that's the main reason why blue is an awfully dependent color: it never goes out of style, it looks flattering on most skin colors and is your best, masculine bet after black.
3.) Tiny leather envelopes or---dare I say, clutches, are actually kind of inspiring.
4.) It's probably worth it to trade up those kinda boring basics for prints that are new and trippy, right? Like how the stripes here are way cooler than those nautical ones we know of. Bottega does the trick for you. Also Prada.
5.) The best lesson to take out from Bottega Veneta is balance. Tomas Maier has perfected it, believe me. How? Who in the world would ever think that tie-dyed pants in a plethora of color would only achieve its sense of calm when topped with gray-black-white sweaters in almost unrecognizable prints? It's tasteful and really assuring to know that it never gets too crazy at Bottega.
GUCCI
| Delicious neutrals=delicious effect Lesson # 1: Soles matter |
| A grainy, grayscaled plus red and black delivers sporty chic looks Lesson # 5: Clement Chabernaud's Jacket is just as famous as he is |
The Look: Quintessential Gucci. Slim, sexy, 60s-70s, subtle on the expensive look and for someone with an inclination towards being disturbingly cool.
The Lessons: 1.) So the soles matter now. Recently we've seen a lot of them on street style blogs and on the runways, but this season it's as monstrous a trend as those hybrid shoes at Prada and Burberry. If you're not the adventurous kind, but would love to have some spark into your look, Gucci's smooth lace-ups in double neutrals are your easy, stylish starts. And other brands carry them too, so you're pretty safe on stock and style.
2.) That Glen plaid and Prince of Whales checks are interchangeable (see how much of an amateur I am) and that they're another huge trend this Spring. There's tons to choose from here, especially on those tiny blazers.
3.) A color palette of neutrals for a foundation will always be a smart move.
4.) While majority of Milan has gone breezy and lax on the silhouette, Frida Giannini stuck to her formula of awesome shrunken proportions which are still really, to die for. If you do want to go slim, go to Gucci.
5.) That one, color-blocked raincoat/jacket at Gucci, which is look # 5/6 has the most fans of the season I suppose. Next to the famed pistachio suit from Zegna. And this one is really my favorite look from the collection. It's cool and sporty and memorable. All along I thought color-blocking was over, I'm quite glad that it got resurrected in great hands at Gucci and another one at DSquared2. Oh, and remember, this jacket is as famous as its wearer: Clement Chabernaud is the name and face for Milan Fashion Week, walking for almost each and every single designer. It also helps that he wears the best-looking things. I smell a new number one...
MONCLER GAMME BLEU
| This jacket...a masterpiece Lesson # 3: The Jacket |
The Lessons: 1.) There are designers who push the envelope like Raf Simons, Miuccia Prada and Thom Browne and sometimes, their efforts for fashion week will leave you either in laughter or in deep puzzlement. Whatever you do, do NOT laugh. These are artists at work and it'll take time to unravel the mystery behind their pieces. But just as Moncler Gamme Bleu exhibited, fashion may be art, but its wearable too. There are pieces here that are sensible and downright wearable until they fall off your back...Not a joke.
2.) Do a study on fencing/Fence wear.
3.) Much like Gucci and Burberry, the real champion of Spring 2012 Milan are the jackets, for me. One of the finest, most gentlemanly and covetable jackets you could find for the season, you'll find here, at Moncler Gamme Bleu. A navy nylon jacket with gold buttons and pocketed to perfection is definitely worth the price. Wear it everywhere, layer with everything and brave all your adventures in it...even when you're just headed to the grocery store and it's that cold.
4.) Do a study on Moncler Gamme Bleu's skiwear heritage.
5.) White maybe a pristine color to wear, but as Moncler Gamme Bleu shows you (like that superb military jacket on Simon Nessman) it could be as rough and regal as a jet coat of armor.
PRADA
| A street style blog sure hit Lesson # 1 |
| Lesson # 3: The neckerchief and it's old-school charm |
The Lessons: 1.) If you have any plans to go and be spotted as a new Street Style icon by STREET FSN, Jak and Jil and the other legendary likes, this Prada collection has got you covered: studded collars, colorful trousers, cartoon prints, whimsical paperboys, all those flashy cool ingredients of a memorable street style moment.
2.) Clunky, chunky and heavily textured/embellished shoes are pretty neat this season, like Burberry's mocs and Missoni's sneakers. At Prada it's rich on all the fancy stuff and is a hybrid of sorts (mocs + lace-ups, I believe?) and the result is dizzying and highly-addicting.
3.) Neckerchiefs are delectable at Prada. Its old-school cool adds lots of European elan to the looks. I'm thinking of ways to pull this rather simple yet flamboyant look soon, when the weather permits.
4.) A little of last Spring's Prada color-blocking are still here, and it seems that if something's going great for you---design wise, might as well keep it. Only, of course, this time it's peppered with more add-ons.
5.) As Miuccia Prada shares that she's inspired by things she hates, it dawned on me that not only is she of pure genius and confidence, but she's sending out a message to her disciples and naysayers...That fashion's all about having fun. That's how this collection impressed me and I'm sure someone will agree.
CALVIN KLEIN
| How suave, Sebastian Sauve...But still looking good Lesson # 1: back-to-basics |
| Lime and avocado...Going monochromatic is still proper Lesson # 2 The Monochrome |
The Lessons: 1.) Denim is here, obviously and what I've learned thanks to those denim breaks Italo Zucchelli placed in his collection. proved that sometimes the best way to wear denim is to keep it as basic as Sebastian Sauve's look: slightly baggy jeans, black tee and smart black lace-ups.
2.) Color-blocked for sure is so now, but pulling off a monochromatic order still scores high points for me. Here the looks are done so well that you'd want to try them yourself: avocado suits on top of a lime tank and trousers or double tanks in two doses of lime...Easy, cool and definitely clean-looking.
3.) What's most notable about Calvin Klein is how energetic it is. Just looking at the clothes gets me pumped up. If you're not in the mood to go sober just yet, get spiked and high on Calvin Klein's colors and awesomely-cut pieces.
4.) Relaxed doesn't always translate to, say, the shapes at Armani or at John Varvatos. Some people are relaxed in spacious, ready-to-go sportswear. Here, what's relaxed isn't a walk down the park, but an almost endless round at the courts for some mean basketball. Mind you, both activities could calm and soothe the mind.
5.) Sporty looks are on the other side of the trend spectrum here...and my best bet is Calvin Klein. Where/Who/What else?
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