Monday, June 20, 2011



Here, for THE REVIEW & your mid-week treat THE SANDWICH are five strong and memorable collections fresh off Milan Fashion Week's third day, reviewed in as brief a review I could do. Cause sometimes, the less we say the more justice we give (in my case, to say the least). Presenting: Alexander McQueen, Etro, Z Zegna, Versace & D&G.


Done up in familiar silhouettes prevalent during the rock n' roll of the 60s and sometime early in the 70s, Sarah Burton's talents at menswear is divine at Alexander McQueen Spring 2012. Boxy suits with perfect arms and shoulders are striped in black and gold, lapeled in two neutral tones or immaculate in a glistening cream spruce up leopard-print trousers, plain gray t-shirts or white button-downs. Proportions are well-played as well with jackets hitting a few inches above the waist or others by the hips, all cool and allows for lots of free-moving. It's a snazzy look brimming with rock n' roll references and images of the cool and happening British scene from decades past. 


At Etro the prints take centerstage from plaids to paisleys to polka dots painting the runways in high spirits on backdrops of navy blazers, wrinkly slim trousers, beautifully-spun knits and silk Macs. Silhouette is generally comfortable--- flowing even, and when layered, the choices of fabric and the variation on proportions on items create such a relaxed and casual appeal, perfect for taking the world in a less serious light.



If you're just like me all hungover from Ermenegildo Zegna, looking at Z Zegna feels like sipping hot coffee the morning after. Its grounded colors and fairly more easier-to-pull-off pieces like round-neck knits in a golden yellow or azure, wide-lapeled jackets in chocolate and more than a handful of coats, shirts and blazers to choose from feel more realistic than the dreamy Ermenegildo Zegna collection. That's not to say that it isn't beautiful. In fact, the relatively more casual and less prissy direction this collection has taken is just as handsome. I now consider myself a Zegna convert.


Donatella Versace knows a good statement alright and just like every season, Spring 2012 at Versace's menswear is a big and loud statement. Vladimir Ivanov, who looks like a Versace front liner for war is just one look from a collection of potent colors, dizzyingly awesome proportions and prints that are as aggressive as they are fascinating. Buckles fasten on the side of lush caramel trousers and on its suede jacket peppered with shoulder embellishments. The socked-sandals too are attention grabbing and the gilded and heavily tinted sunglasses as well. This isn't a collection for the faint of heart (such as myself). Expect no less from the house of Versace.

+ D&G

While it's no surprise that denim stars in the Spring 2012 collection of D&G, it is though, a revelation that when paired with elaborately printed silk basics like shorts, shirts, jackets and pants the two make a young. vibrant and almost electric couple. A favorite would be Francisco Lachowski's light-washed denim jacket. Sam Webb's smoky, faded denim shirt punched with a silk orange denim-waisted pair of shorts is another stellar look. When topped with fedoras, soled with warm mocs and balanced out by bits of khakis and olives here and there, it gets your heart-racing, excited for a sojourn just about anywhere. Chic, cool, rugged but also aged and a little flamboyant, this is what I'd dream to wear in the summer.

photos: GQ

- Gerard

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