Monday, June 20, 2011



It's plaid looking blurry and smoky = beautiful
Backstage @ Bottega Veneta Spring 2012
Sonny Photos
Festive yet crisp. A little crazy but well-put together. Almost therapeutic on color and high on the mixes, what Tomas Maier has done for Bottega Veneta Spring 2012 is a celebration. Like most Milanese shows, it seems that the blending and union of various prints, techniques, materials and proportions is a huge, huge trend. And  no one's really complaining, especially right after seeing how this kind of chemistry ought to be handled at Bottega Veneta. 

Always true to its aesthetics, Maier has done this collection in an energy only collected men could contain. Moments in the show could've been crazier, wilder and in proportions, bigger, but Maier knows Bottega Veneta is never about the all out gaudy. Instead, it teases and plays with taste, the imagination and the eyes. There came a series of denim looks, one head-to-toe with splices of leather on the side and the rest in equilibrium at equal parts of leather and denim. At first they looked costumey to me, but there was the wrinkle on the denim and the buttery gloss on the leather that took fears away, reminding me that these are in fact wearable . Zip down the part-leather, part-denim jacket, put on a white tee and wear olive trousers with black lace-ups and its a handsome look. Or take those pair of denim-pocketed leather pants with a crisp white button-down for a walk out and it's beautiful.

Prints are varied and exciting. Shirts are tie-dyed, trousers too. Plaids are blurred, looking smoky and superb. Stripes go in ripply brushstrokes in all different directions, but are far from nauseating. And other prints that resemble ostrich skin or odd curvy shapes. A concert of prints only bright minds could imagine, this swatch was heart-warming and exciting to try on. Probably two of the most memorable would be Jae Yoo's multi-patterned gray sweater and Nil Butler's orange striped shirt plus cardigan combo. Both of which deliver stunning stylish impact.
Amazing color and print--not to mention some optical illusion for you,
on Nils Butler

Jae Yoo and the sweater

Even the relatively duller looks like tan military jackets and light blue suits are spiked with color or treatment. A khaki jacket goes for a double shot of tan and looks current and refreshing while a steel blue suit gets the perfect break through a mocha striped shirt underneath. Accessories do their jobs as well, when---for example, an off-white look marches out with a hefty bag lined with fruity punches of orange, pink and yellow. Or when a slim leather envelope in jet black polishes Clement Chabernaud's lime and aqua look.

Clement Chabernaud
On all items from sweaters to three-button suits, slim cut trousers and buttoned-up shirts, the touch of luxurious wrinkles and a sense of plush comfort were here and has been the house's signature take on elegance. Bottega Veneta delivers yet again and impresses even naysayers who have difficult times digesting these looks. What's most sublime about Maier's work is just how much of a lord he is over his talents and what the house could do. Putting breaks and limits to achieve handsome balance, is a sign of a true taste artist even.  Here is a celebration then, marked not by the intensity of its statement, but by the true balance of things memorable. 

photos: GQ

- Gerard

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