Saturday, January 15, 2011



Sean O'pry and the rest of the Dolce boys at the end of the show

Bryan Ferry's---the famed English lead of Roxy Music, brand of chic and glam served as peg for Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana's Fall 2011 collection. From his record covers to his glitzy jackets, the man landed  the icon shirt Dolce & Gabbana's known for, which feels like a mandatory philosophy to follow while looking at the collection: that everything was of Ferry. It did however stand as strong a collection without  studying the man ideally behind it, for it offered a whiff at youth, probably rebellious but in more ways romantic.

Crotches were dropping low, hips going wide, ties gone missing from three-piece suits or if looks had ties on, they were buttoned safe by tie-flaps. Suspenders, slim and usually in black gave the belt some good r&r and like the tie-flaps, shiny tie-clips went along the "for later" file, adding that hot new "done" look this collection seems to aim for. As for weight, though jackets are tailored sharp, they came in bulky looks like boxy double breasted versions with velvet wide lapels or puffy fur jackets paired with icon shirts. Sweaters, striped inspirations from, as Tim Blanks puts it "Freddy Krueger", were chunky like what Arthur Sales had on. But again, this was Dolce & Gabbana, the authors of a velvety and rich Italian sexy that were still visible in suits handsome for well-dressed nights out like Garrett Neff's look. 

The young and in love comes in by way of street-inspired brogues with red stitching or in black patent leather, or done up high making the distinction between brogues and hi-top sneakers seemless. As discussed, the trousers too were lending a youthful touch to, say sparkly, pave-sequined dinner jackets that made the collection hit a more romantic high. Other looks though seemed more mature, but daring still like Noah Mills' burnt orange printed look and the other number done up in the same hue but with a less aggressive print than Mills'. Pretty options too came in the form of trim varsity jackets, truly brilliant additions to the slew of jackets and puffy coats.

A sensual timeless black, crisp white, worn-in gray, a rusty brown, burnt orange, plain red and the stand-out glittery violet provided a serious depth and warmth to the collection making it seem all the more  a dramatic look into the efforts of Dolce & Gabbana to tap the young while keeping the aged inside their buying circle. 

It probably was the continuous, momentous search for calm that left this collection (and the successful ones that preceded this) sober and romantic. Despite the impression of a younger spirit in the Dolce & Gabbana collection, the rebellion, the fight and all the other troubles of youth that bother them only did this collection little, and in my eyes it's better this way than going for a full-on war against something, anything that doesn't really matter.






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